Great post today from our friend Chutayaves Sinthuphan (Chuta).  Khun Chuta is a Thai architect who is doing some great work on sustainable architecture here in Thailand — working on container based housing, earthen structures (adobe and cob) and other projects.

Khun Chuta was just featured on a documentary television program.

We were featured on a documentary ‘Save My Planet’ on Live Well Network about our interest in creating eco-friendly affordable income housing out of shipping containers in Thailand.

Check out the video here: LiveWell:

Next, we’ll head to the other side of the world where one man is giving old shipping containers new life. Folks in Bangkok, Thailand, might one day see an entire neighborhood of beautiful homes made from these abandoned boxes:

• There are thousands of unused shipping containers sitting in ports around the world
• The containers are usually made of the best steel money can buy
• Shipping container homes are a great way to provide affordable housing

For more of Khun Chuta’s work, see his blog at A Site Specific Experiment.

Each Expedition Field Course has a mid-course seminar — a chance to reflect on what is being learned, summarize, and prepare for the next phase of the expedition.  Ajaan Abram, teaching the rivers course, met the students in Nong Khai and traveled with them to the seminar site.

Students working on their posters in the guesthouse overlooking the Mekong river.

For the Rivers course, the seminar took place in the riverside town of Chiang Khan, in Loei province.  Chiang Khan used to be a sleepy town of wooden buildings built along the banks of the Mekong river, across from Laos.  Now, the old wooden buildings are being converted into guest houses, Internet cafes, and funky restaurants — as it is only a day’s drive from Bangkok. It is a great place for mid-course on Rivers, as it is half way between Issan (the Northeast of Thailand) and the Northern Thai province of Phrae, where the students paddle the Yom River (go to our maps page to see the course locations).

A street in Chiang Khan.

During the seminar the students ha a chance to talk through what they had learned from the communities of fisherfolk along the Mun river, the impact of the Pak Mun dam, as well as what they had observed on the transect of the Mekong river up from Ubonratchathani province.

Filling in the details before presenting.

Two of the key questions that were discussed were about connections and interactions taking place in and around rivers in SE Asia.

Taylor and Karen talking about the “Bangkok Monster” and its impact on the river, villagers, ecosystems and other players in resource management.

Students were asked to draw the spatial, environmental, economic and sociological connections of major players in and around the Mun River before and after the construction of the Pak Mun dam. They were also asked to reflect on transboundary interactions of players on the Mekong including the spatial, environmental, economic and sociological connections.

Jill, Emily and Kadilyn (with the Mekong river behind them).

Here are some photos of the day, along with their posters and explanatory text, to give you a feel for the course.

Exploring the connections between environmental, social and economic impacts of the Pak Mun dam.

Women in Chiang Khan selling “popia tot” (fried spring rolls).

Karen and Taylor discuss the Mekong as a chocolate river (more below).

Transboundary issues -- as water flows down the river, each user takes out some, leaving less for the downstream countries.

Vested interests of different actors in managing the Mekong river.

Motorcycle with rattan basket in front of the guesthouse.

The Mekong represented as a giant catfish — with each group trying to take a share (eat the fish).

The Mekong river as the chocolate river in the Willy Wonka factory, with each user (country) drinking from the river, the ompa-loompas as the Mekong River Commission trying to get everyone to cooperate, and consumerism floating down the river.

The village and their livelihood before the dam and “development” — with villagers self-sufficient in fish, and earning money from a very rich fishery. After, they loose their self-sufficiency and are forced to migrate to the city to work.

Sunset over the Mekong river -- Thailand on the left, Laos on the right.

We got back from our recon of the Yom River late Monday night for our Rivers course. It was a good chance to learn more about the river, test out our new canoes, check on gear and rigging, and see how the canoes performed in both swift water as well as some of the long shallow sections of the Yom. Not the usual prep for study abroad courses, but standard practice for ISDSI Expedition Field Courses.

Unloading the canoes for the recon.

The Yom is an interesting river.  The section we paddle (about 48 km) flows through forests, and along some fields, but not through any villages or under bridges — so it has a much more “wild” feel than many rivers in Thailand.  There are no weirs or dams on this section of the river, and it supports a vibrant ecological and human community — people fishing, birds hunting fish, etc.  It also flows through the last remaining stand of golden teak in Thailand. The reason we paddle this section is that this is the part that will be lost if the government goes ahead with plans to dam the river (and cut the teak). So the village elders and youth activists we paddle with treasure canoeing down the river as much as we do.

A section of the topographic maps we used. We use digitized versions we customize and print out for the course.

For the recon we had three goals.  First, we needed to assess how low the river really was.  The data that we had from the Thai Hydrology and Water Management Center (hydro-1.com) showed that the Yom was running at about 60 cm.  Last year when we ran the river a month further into dry season, the river was running at about 80 cm.  That is a pretty significant drop from last year, and we wanted to see what that meant.

The Yom river tends to have three distinct types of river topography — long and deep sections without much current, short drops with rapids (cobble stones or larger rapids), as well as sections of braided river flowing through willow thickets. Even in very dry years, the long deep sections can be paddled, but we weren’t sure about the rapids and willow thickets.

Pi Pu (with Pi Carrie in the stern) checking out the willows and reeds up close and personal...

The second reason to do the recon was to check out how the new Mad River canoes performed. We’ve used two other types of canoes in the past, PakCanoes and SOAR canoes. The PakCanoes are a skin-on-frame design, and while exceptionally lightweight, running them over rocks and rapids (especially limestone) and through willows eventually wrecked them. They are great canoes for remote wild rivers with bigger water, or lakes, but for the rough conditions we encounter didn’t really work.  The SOAR canoes are amazing — they have taken the same technology for river rafts and created a two person canoe. They inflate, and are thus very easy to transport (and are, in fact, very popular in remote locations in Alaska and similar places).  We used them for a few years, and then had problems with the floor welds (that kept the floor tube flat) failing. The company was fantastic, and fixed the boats for free. We’re holding on to them to use in bigger water (they are terrific whitewater boats) as well as to use if we run courses in more remote locations.  In the meantime, we purchased 15 Mad River canoes (Explorer 16s).

No advanced materials for this guy's boat -- just a hewn log and hand carved paddle!

The Mad River canoes we used performed very well.  The polyethylene hulls stood up to a great deal of abuse, and slid over the cobbles and river rocks (where the other canoes would have stopped).  We also found that due to their hull design, you could edge the canoe (lean up on one side) and get through or over tight rocky sections. The canoes also tracked very well (were easy to keep straight) and moved very quickly in the long slack sections of the river.

Pi Noi taking a break from being office manager and dealing with paperwork to get out in the field.

The final reason we did the recon was a combination of the first two.  We needed data on how fast we could expect the group to travel on each section of the river. This is a combination of the specific river topography (slack water, shallow rapids, braided willows) and the specific boats we are using (shallow “v” hulled polyethylene canoes).  We used topographic maps with a 1 km UTM grid and a GPS to determine our location, and then calculated our average rate of travel for each section.  That way the instructors and student leaders of the day can gauge their progress, and know when to stop, and how fast to pace themselves to accomplish the academic objectives of each day — studying the river ecology, local knowledge and community efforts to conserve the river and the fish.

Ajaan Mark and Pi Ben working out location and pace off a map and GPS (with Pi Carrie and Miriam cooling off in the background).

The recon went well.  We started paddling on Saturday at 3, and started looking for a campsite as it was getting dark.  The next morning, we got up early, had breakfast and broke down camp, and paddled through the day with a few rests and a lunch break.  Paw Sanguan, one of the village elders, met us at lunch, and we were able to talk over the logistics for the course more, as well as how the boats handled. Paw Sanguan is expert fisherman and river paddler (in the old style dug-out canoes the villagers use as well as our new ones), and is a key instructor for our course.

We pushed hard  until just before dark through lots of rock gardens, rapids, braided willow channels, and slow deep sections.  We camped, ate dinner, and fell to sleep sore but happy.  We were making amazing time, and would probably be able to make the take out at the Kaeng Sua Ten (Dancing Tiger Rapids) sometime the next day.

Paddling late into the day.

Up early on the river, and a cold breakfast to help with a fast start, and into our first set of rapids right away. Along the way we ran into one of the village elders (or “Paw” — meaning “father”) who was out fishing and recognized us. He figured we’d make Dancing Tiger Rapids and the national park office by mid-afternoon at our pace.

Mist on the river in the morning, with a local fisherman pulling up the night's catch just ahead of us.

We were able to push hard through some long rocky sections, and made it to a place the students will use as a campsite in time for lunch, and made a quick satellite phone call to set up our pick up. Then a couple more hours of deep slack water, and then a kilometer plus of rapids, including the Dancing Tiger Rapids.  With the water level as low as it was, it involved a bit of pushing here and there, and was really technical and tricky — threading through rock gardens, and navigating the final “S” turns of the Dancing Tiger Rapid with a lot more rocks than usual (but a lot less water volume).

Ajaan Mark and Miriam (who was taking a break from Chiang Mai International School) in the midst of the Dancing Tiger Rapids.

We made it by about 3 in the afternoon — just about 48 hours total, three days, two nights.

Pi Carrie and Pi Pui pleased to be out of the willows, with a clean run down the final rapids.

We hauled gear and boats out of the river, got picked up later that afternoon, and then had a long van ride back to Chiang Mai, where we arrived late at night. The trip was great, we learned a lot about the gear, the river and the current state of the Yom.  We also have enough valuable information to pass on to the instructors and students so they can make the most of their time on the river, starting on Friday, March 5th.

Each time we run the Yom, we wonder how long it will last, and how long the community can keep the river wild and undammed. Every rapid, every willow thicket, every campsite — and their home village — will all be inundated if the dam is ever built. Each run on the river helps makes their case stronger — two years ago they used photos of ISDSI students paddling the river in testimony before Thai Parliament to argue that the river was not only ecologically significant, but also internationally important — not just valuable for “only” local people (the argument of those who want to dam the river). So while our role in saving the Yom might be small, we’ll do what we can.

We’re also donating one of the Mad River Canoes to the village activist group to help them in their on-going work of studying the river and documenting its ecological significance. Paw Sanguan already is looking forward to paddling it to his favorite spots, and teaching the younger generations about the Yom.

Rapids on the Mekong river in dry season.

The great Mekong river is not doing well.

This year is especially dry in Southeast Asia, due in part to this year’s El Niño, which tends to bring drier conditions to SE Asia. The Ping river, which flows through Chiang Mai, for example, is very low below the weirs that hold in the water for the section through the city center.

On the Mekong river, it is dry for other reasons as well.  From The Bangkok Post,

Ever since the completion of a few dams across the Mekong river in China, the once mighty river, which flows through all the riparian countries except China, has diminished to a trickle every dry season. The situation this year is worse than the previous years and the worst is yet to come with more dams being built.

If they were alive today, our forefathers would be in shock. The  mighty Mekong -   the traditional lifeline of Chinese, Burmese, Thais, Lao, Cambodians and Vietnamese - has dried up so badly this year that it no longer qualifies  to be called a river.

Boat travel from Chiang Rai’s Chiang Khong district to the old Lao capital of Luang Prabang,  a popular tourist route  has been halted because the water too shallow  for boats  with the capacity to accommodate more than four people.  Cargo boats from China have been stranded in Chiang Saen district of Chiang Rai.

Chirasak Inthayos, coordinator of the Network for the Conservation of Mekong River Natural Resources and Cultures, said that the river’s condition is the worst for more than a decade.  He could only imagine how much worse it will be by April, when the dry season normally peaks.

For the next three weeks our students are in the field doing the Rivers course, studying the impact of dams on the Pak Mun river, a major tributary of the Mekong, doing a transect of Northeastern Thailand (Issan), and then paddling the Yom river.  On Saturday some of the instructors are going to run the Yom to see how dry it is.  We often end up having to pull the canoes in a few shallow sections in a normal year, so we’re interested to see what this year is like.

This last five weeks we’ve been fortunate to have Christie Sobel here are our “artist in residence” doing illustrations for our field guides, some graphic design, and overall adding to the life at ISDSI.

In addition to the art work she was doing for ISDSI, Christie led the students in some field based drawing classes — learning how to really look at the natural world and capture it through drawings and illustrations.

Here are some of the icons for our courses that she did.

Her work is available for purchase through her website. Beautiful note cards and illustrations — we REALLY like these! Be sure to jump to http://christisobel.com/ for more!

The last week of the Foundations course the students at ISDSI fan out over the city and study four sustainability indicators — walkability, traffic, the use/health of the Ping river, and the food systems of Chiang Mai (looking at organic food, the size of the foodshed, etc.).  The students split into four groups, and each group spends Monday planning, Tuesday and Wednesday gathering data, Thursday doing data analysis, and then Friday on a presentation.

Nikki and Jack talking about "som" (tangerines) in both supermarkets and fresh (wet) markets.

It is always fun to see what creative ways students work out to learn about sustainability in the city.  This semester the rivers group borrowed a couple of ISDSI’s sit-on-top kayaks and paddled down the Ping river, the food systems group decided to focus on oranges/tangerines as a proxy for broader food system dynamics, the traffic group looked a cars and “public” or at least “mass” transportation, and the walking group tried to figure out how difficult it was to walk in different places in the city.

Molly and Taylor discussing the challenges of walking in the city center.

The papers are here as pdf files:

• Walkability index for Chiang Mai city
• Traffic and mass transportation as a measure of sustainability for Chiang Mai
• Food systems, organics and the foodshed for tangerines (som) in Chiang Mai
• The Ping river and its connection to sustainability and the life of Chiang Mai

Krissy and her group did a great job working out the challenges of walking, and how even the idea of walking around the city is culturally mediated.

On Friday we were joined by Khun Pim Kemasingki, the editor of Chiang Mai CityLife magazine, a well known English language magazine published in Chiang Mai for almost 20 years. Khun Pim was great — having grown up in Chiang Mai she was able to add a lot of historical background, and with her position as editor, she understands the challenges of sustainability for Chiang Mai city. It was great for the students as well to get another perspective on the city, and the role of culture, language and politics in sustainability. (Also check out CityLife’s page on going carbon neutral.)

Ajaan Christina, Ajaan Mark and Khun Pim were the discussants for the presentations.

The students learned a lot about the city that is there home for this semester, got out into places tourists don’t often go, and were able to pull together research involving both social science and ecology. Well done all!

Matt explains the traffic and how it all fits together.

Last week was the final week of the 5 week homestay. To thank the families and to gather as a community, we hosted a farewell dinner and party with the families, students, instructors and staff of ISDSI.  We ate out under the stars near the foot of Doi Suthep mountain, at the side of a lake (for those who know Chiang Mai, along the canal road near the 700 year stadium).  It was a traditional “kantoke” dinner, with everyone sitting on mats on the ground, eating off a small round “kantoke” table filled with sticky rice, curry, steamed vegetables, and other Northern Thai food.

In addition to the dinner, there was a local group of youth performing traditional songs and dances, and then the ISDSI students performed as well. Alone or in pairs, students and their families prepared songs (in Thai!) as well as traditional dances.  It was a great time, and we all enjoyed it immensely.  Here are some photos taken by Pi Ben of the event.

Lindsey's host family getting her ready.

Kristen and Jill doing a traditional Lanna Thai dance with their host sisters.

Nikki doing the nail dance with her host sisters.

Krissy singing in Thai "Sao Chiang Mai" (Chiang Mai Maiden), a well loved Northern Thai folk song.

Ajaan Wilasanee (pictured) and Pi Pu were the MCs for the event and did a terrific job jumping between Thai and English explaining the dances and songs.

Pi Pu introducing the students (some out of the frame), who sang in Thai "Bang khon kin khanom pang" (or "Some people eat bread") a folk song celebrating eating sticky rice, the Northern Thai staple. The song starts saying "Some people eat bread..." but goes on to say "but I eat sticky rice" -- which, since Westerners "all" eat bread, is especially fun when Western students sing it. It celebrates that the students have embraced Thai culture -- eating rice and singing in Thai. (Note too the families taking photos like it is a UN press conference.)

Currently so much talking and writing is often done without conviction — without thoughtful, measured, and considered words.  As any alumni of an ISDSI program can tell you, there is a lot of writing during an ISDSI course — field notes, essays, reflections, etc. As we are teaching our students about writing and research over the last couple of weeks, we watched and discussed this poem by Taylor Mali.  It is critical to be able to write clearly, and to know how to make a cogent argument using well chosen words. Taylor Mali makes the point in a funny and profound way.

Enjoy (and thanks to film student Ronnie Bruce for the video).

A "rot daeng" or "song taew" (two-bencher). A common mode of transportation for students.

This spring semester several of the students are blogging their experiences.  Check them out for some great insights into Thai culture, homestays, and their adventures in Thailand! Here are some excerpts (with spelling and grammar left as is…)

Jack:

I’ll wake up every morning at around 5:45 AM when it is still dark out, but two hours after the roosters have started keekaakaaing around my window. When I can finally drag myself out of bed (usually around 6) I’ll shower, brush my teeth, and get dressed in my school uniform (white collared short sleeve shirt and black pants) so as to look reep roy (proper/put together).

I’ll eat breakfast and then bike ten minutes down the road to highway 118, where I can park my bike for 5 baat (~15 cents) at a small cafe/restaurant for the day. From there, I catch a rot luuang downtown, where I switch the the rot dang (red bus) that will take me to ISDSI. The ‘buses’ I refer to are actually called song tow, which means two benches, and pretty much describes the nature of the vehicle. They can comfortably fit around 10 people inside, though when adding those who hang off the back (often me) and the occasional person who rides on top, I have seen song tows hold up to 23 people, though two of the passengers I am counting are infants.

Caroline:

“You have to be at school by 7:30am. What time do you usually get to school?”
“7:00am or 7:05am.”
“Okay. We’ll drive you so you won’t be late.”

That was part of last night’s dinner conversation. I got to school at 6:50am (a new record) today. Usually I take public transit and get to school pretty early, but my host parents wanted to be sure I was more than on time today.

Lindsey:

Farming in Mae Taa.

On this farm they began growing banana plants 20 years ago because they sprout up quickly giving shade to smaller plants. At the same time they planted mango trees as well as some smaller plant species like pineapple. After several years, the mango trees grew taller than the banana trees and began to choke them out. While at a “normal” farm this would be seen as a bad thing, the banana trees on this organic farm served their purpose, and the remains went back into the ground to fertilize the next wave of plant life.

The farm we visited was only on a couple of acres of land, but it had over 80 species of plants! It also included a small pond with tilapia. Chickens or other animals feed on vegetable/plant leftovers on the land, then the tilapia eat the chicken poop. Tilapia are very efficient, easily grown fish that provide an easy source of protein for the farmers.

Betsy:

Weekends are generally a good thing, but for some reason I had an absolutely spectacular weekend. It started with our group from ISDSI (17 students and 3 instructors) heading out to a site outside of Chiang Mai called “Crazy Horse”. Crazy Horse is a site for a series of caves and cliffs. We spent the morning exploring a couple different caves and learning about the different features of caves. We then zip-lined across one cave to a stalactite and repelled down 150 feet! It was pretty thrilling. We had lunch and then spent the afternoon rock-climbing the cliffs outside of the cave. I’m not the best climber, but I was surprised to find that I was very capable of climbing the different rock faces. I spent Friday night with my host family, and singing chereokee with Nong Yeem (my younger sister).

Saturday came and for the first time in about a week I got to sleep in! (til 9! haha…) I ate breakfast and did some homework, and then my Paw said that I needed to relax from my long day of climbing….so….our family went to the hot springs outside of the city! My afternoon was pretty harsh….taking a hot mineral bath (pretty much like a hot tub) and ending the day with a Thai massage. The hot springs are a popular picnic area, and when people eat at the hot springs, they boil eggs in the hot spring! haha it’s pretty sweet! My Paw asked me if I wanted an egg, and I said yes, so he popped an egg into the hot spring bath for about 3 minutes and bam! soft boiled egg!

Ben:

Fried crickets. Yum!

After three weeks of Thai class four hours a day and living in a Thai family my Thai has improved. This is something that is so rewarding as you begin to understand reading and writing more and more, and your speaking and comprehension of the language expands. This knowledge can be used immediately and enables you to communicate with your Thai family better and also understand the culture you are living in better. It is a great feeling to make progress especially against the challenges of the Tonal language with an alphabet that borrows from Sanskrit. I have a long way to go, but I am sure to get better with the 44 consonants, 32 vowels, and the 5 tones.

Riley:

The Thai dinner table is the perfect setting for asking questions. Is this an animal or vegetable? Can you eat this(said with perfect sincerity)?
To the undiscerning eye your best luck is to simply watch what the locals do with the items on their plate.
Things do not become that much clearer even if you prepare the food yourself. I went to a Thai buffet. They bring hot coals to your table while you pick from dozens of raw meats which you will fry yourself. Seeing the food both before and after cooking it brings only marginally more enlightenment.
Tonight for dinner my host mother taugh me to make sweet green curry with chicken. While this seems straight forward one of the main ingredients is coagulated chicken blood. The most disturbing part is that the blood doesnt dissipate but instead remains as chunks that resemble soft tofu as you eat them. The dish was delicious despite the blood.
There are a lot of things I eat that I cant decipher but most of these things taste good in the end.

This year was a busy one for ISDSI, with three brand new additions joining the other kids at ISDSI — Nong Ellie, Nong Que and Nong Mai — all born in 2009!

Ajaan Wilasanee (Kru Ning), who teaches and Thai for ISDSI as well as coordinates host family placements had a baby girl, Nong Mai, on May 25th.  Pi Pu, who runs the office, Thai staff and also works with Wilasanee on homestays ALSO had a baby, on June 22 — Nong Que.  Since BOTH of the host families coordinators were pregnant during the spring semester, it was an interesting time to juggle homestays — AND they were able to set up all the fall semester homestays before going on maternity leave.  Good timing!

Last but not least to join us was Nong Ellie, born on August 19th to Pi Becca, who is a city and regional planner here with Abram, a post-doc at ISDSI.

The kids are getting big fast, so we decided to get them together for some photos.  Thanks to Pi Ben for taking the time to photograph the babies — a bit of change from his usual photos of sea kayaking, rock climbing and the cultures of Southeast Asia!

Ellie and Becca

Mai and Ning

Que and Pu

The three moms and babies!

Gettings babies to pose isn't easy!

Que's done. Time to go take a nap...